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Messages - sam

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16
Questions / Re: Midi velocity and harmonics
« on: August 30, 2017, 06:28:57 PM »
Hi Gabriel.  The velocity is only one value, additional processing algorithms on the conductivity data being sampled could be developed and added to the code, you just need to figure out what type of information you are representing with the Velocity value (sample data rate, consistency of data), it would make sense to normally send velocity 95 and then do a 'peak' 127 based on the data algorithm for 'accent'.

Scaling of notes is best accomplished through Ableton Live 'scale' (under MIDI effects).  I suggest watching some youtube videos about how scale works because it has very powerful features.  Most scaling plugins will take an incoming note and map it to the next nearest scaled note.  You can also use this plugin to limit the note range.

The sprout already has code for scaling, you would just need to fire up the arduino IDE, edit the currScale = one of the listed scale arrays, or add your own custom scale.  You could also change the noteMin and noteMax variables (currently 36{C2} - 96{C7}) to limit the note range to your needs.

I wouldn't suggest using the MIDI Sprout Tools app, if you are using Live you have much more powerful tools!

17
Questions / Re: Midi Monitor not responding
« on: August 24, 2017, 10:51:25 AM »
Sorry to say, that cable is crap! 

Those very inexpensive (hope you didn't pay more than $10 for it) MIDI devices are NOT wired for standard MIDI compliance.  Those USB cables have a hard connection between the Ground of the Sprout USB and the ground of the USB, this means you are not going to get the 'isolation' needed between the Sprout and your computer.  MIDI requires the MIDI input device to use an opto-coupled input such that the MIDI output device (the Sprout) will drive a tiny LED inside the opto coupler on the MIDI Input device, this method allows total electrical separation of the two devices. 

I have tried to modify those MIDI cables (lifting the Ground) but it appears that the cable requires a ground connection between the two devices.

I utilize an EMU MIDI cable https://www.amazon.com/CREATIVE-EMU-XMIDI-MIDI-Interface/dp/B000JLU26W which is the cheapest and functional USB/MIDI device which i've seen work correctly. 

-sam


18
Questions / Re: Midi Monitor not responding
« on: August 10, 2017, 04:01:38 PM »
It sounds like you are almost there!

What type of USB to MIDI device are you using?  You will need to configure the MIDI monitor to listen to the USB/MIDI input (EMU MIDI Input - or whatnot).  You don't need to use IAC Bus, this is only used to route midi around inside your computer to multiple programs.

What audio software synthesizer are you using?  You should be able to configure the MIDI in your synth software to also accept your USB/MIDI device as Input.

-sam

19
Questions / Re: usb midi interface - windows 10
« on: August 03, 2017, 06:42:14 PM »
No, You do not need the MIDI Sprout Tools, it is a novelty program.

 You only need a USB to MIDI converter. The one you link is okay I use a different EMU unit (see my other posts on this topic). Your akai mpk is fine for MIDI to USB conversion.

20
Questions / Re: Need to ship midi sprout in
« on: July 12, 2017, 01:38:48 PM »
Hey Thomas, I'll send you an email to coordinate

-Sam

21
Questions / Re: Working in Tiny Bursts
« on: July 09, 2017, 09:50:11 PM »
I'll send you an email and we can get you all fixed up!

Sorry it has taken so long to get your issue remedied.

-Sam

22
Questions / Re: Clamps for softer/smaller plants
« on: June 09, 2017, 12:05:29 AM »
I've used a couple different conductive gels (Ten/20, aloe, hand lotion).  If you need an intermediary substrate I suggest:

1. Spectra 360  electrode Gel

2. Ultrasound Gel (Salt-free, Chloride-free)

3. Cut the sticky gel off one of the Tens electrode pads and stick it to the clips!

23
Development / Re: Experience Level
« on: June 08, 2017, 11:59:36 PM »
Thank you very much Nicola!

24
Questions / Re: Building a Sprout with an Arduino
« on: April 23, 2017, 07:58:33 PM »
The 0.1uF and 47uF capacitors are 'decoupling' and they go across the positive and negative rails, in the case of the 555 timer these are pin 1 (GND) and pin 8 (VCC).

The 0.1uF capacitor is not polarized and can be in either direction, bit the 47uF cap is polarized, and the longer leg should go to the positive (Pin 8) and the shorter leg with a (-) sign on the cylinder goes to ground.


25
Questions / Re: Clamps for softer/smaller plants
« on: April 21, 2017, 06:27:59 PM »
Thanks for clarifying how you were attaching the trodes in the video Joe. 

Normal alligator clips will cut into leaves, and are normally considered impolite.  You can use electrodes like these for a softer clamping. The 3.5mm jack is used as an input size on the Sprout.

Or i recommend cutting the sticky electrode into a smaller size or only attach a portion of the trode to the leaf.  its very true that thin soft leaves will not release well from the electrode jel.

26
Questions / Re: Building a Sprout with an Arduino
« on: April 20, 2017, 10:51:41 PM »
You will need to install the LEDFader library through the Arduino IDE.  there is a very nice Library installer. 

I can not provide a tutorial for using the Arduino IDE here, but you can look at Adafruit, their learning system had everything you need to learn about programming, arduino, physical computing, and moral lessons about sharing ideas and being a good person

This is my latest Arduino 'Shield' code which uses a new button on A1.  You need to use the BiodataSonification_026_kit.ino file.

Otherwise the original code is here.

It does take a large amount of work to get 'setup', and the rewards are quite gratifying.  Once you can make an LED flash at will, you can make anything happen!

Good luck!

27
Yes anything in the picofaraday range will give a sufficiently high 'maximum' pulse rate on the 555 to work with plants.  A higher value for the timing capacitor works better for humans, tho the sprout capacitor values and the threshold allows personal and inter-personal experiments.

In practice you can get away with a very wide range for the timing capacitor, especially considering that we are using the plant as an electrode and our 'resistance' can be ohms to megaohms.  The voltage divider which is made between the 'trodes' and the 100K resistor pulled up on Discharge Pin 7, create the primary measurement.  Changing the 100k will also allow different configurations and sensitivity.

One key is the 555 timer, by using a low voltage low impedance LMC555 we get additional sensitivity and compatibility with different microcontrollers (like 3.3v adafruit circuit playground)

You really can beat up a 555 without damaging it (1.5v-15v) plug anything into anything else or even into another 555 .... unlike an ATMega which can toast in microseconds if voltage is applied incorrectly.  I've seen 555 timers operate (strangely) even with reversed voltage, its as if they love that kind of crazy sh-t.

I always suggest to experiment, instead of getting one value of cap, look for an amazon/aliexpress/ebay box of various capacitors and see how they react with plants and stimuli.

cheers

28
Questions / Re: Working in Tiny Bursts
« on: March 10, 2017, 09:29:08 AM »
Hi, here are a few things to try:

1.) When turning on the sprout, you turn the knob clockwise to the right.  Directly after the 'click' and power turns on, that is the 'most sensitive' setting, as the knob turns further clockwise the sensitivity is reduced.  Try testing the sprout with the knob positioned right after the switch 'on' position.

2.) Unplug from the computer MIDI connector and see if that makes a difference with sensitivity.  If you have a macbook or other metal frame computer and touch both electrodes while also touching the computer frame, you might not get very good signal.  I have implemented a 'ground lift' such that the MIDI ground is not attached inside the sprout, this should avoid some of the grounding issues from the first version.

3.) Use different 'grip' on the electrodes when touching with your fingers.  The sprout only reacts to 'changes' in conductivity, try squeezing and releasing the trodes repeated - this should definitely cause the sprout to trigger.

4.) Use a plant!  snap on the sticky electrodes to the leads and gently attach the two electrodes to the leaf of a plant.  Again use the highest sensitivity knob position.

I've had one other person with a similar issue, and they suggest an issue may exist with the electrode leads.  If it is lighting up briefly when touching the trodes, the Sprout should be working fine.

Also note, MIDI Sprout Tools is just a novelty application, but i'm glad it is working for you.  The Tools app can be used to convert the MIDI channel and other data parameters, but I suggest using a simple MIDI monitor to review the data.

Let me know how it goes, and I can provide support if you can't get it working.  It sounds like everything is functional, you probably just need to do a full setup with a plant and give it a couple hours to settle down.

cheers
-sam

29
Questions / Re: saving changes in midi sprout app
« on: March 03, 2017, 09:26:42 PM »
If you change the scale or other parameters in the code, you need to upload via the Arduino app.  The MIDI Sprout Tools is a simple 'intermediary' which doesn't save any values to the Sprout.

I'm working on new code which allows the addition of a button on pin A1 which allows parameters to be controlled on the Sprout itself using the knob and the LEDs to display the modes.  I don't have the code saving to EEPROM, yet.  but please check it out if you are looking for some new features for programming the Sprout!


30
Questions / Re: No output or light show
« on: March 02, 2017, 11:29:59 AM »
Hey Paul.  Make sure your batteries are inserted in the right direction, and perhaps lick your finger tips before touching the trodes.  The Sprout should light right up.

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